Sometimes too much emphasis is placed on the precise

pairing of food and wines, but there's no mistaking what this sweet wine is meant for: dessert.

This non-vintage California selection was a favorite of Georges de Latour, Beaulieu Vineyard founder. It's made with the ancient grape muscat, known for its aromatics and complexity.

Grape brandy is added to the wine early in the fermentation to produce the sweetness and an 18 percent alcohol level. Some of the wine is aged in oak, which adds richness and depth. It's a sweet, thick wine influenced by the brandy with flavors of honey and stone fruit.

This is definitely a sipping wine.

Sherry: "Honey, apricot and brandy with an apple and pear finish." 3-1/2 stars

Chris: "Honey and pear with notes of brandy." 3 stars

Available locally for about $8.

Coming next week: Cupcake Chardonnay